Eight miraculous bottles of Yquem, 130 years later

Aromas of cedar, dried fruit and saffron: the rescue of eight bottles of Château d'Yquem 1892 and 1896, forgotten under the floor of a chapel in Bohemia and reconditioned in the Bordeaux estate that had produced them, offers us an extraordinary story of wine heritage saved from oblivion.

Forgotten under the floor of a Bohemian chateau chapel, exceptional Château d'Yquem vintages dating from the late 19th century have recently been restored by the Bordeaux estate that produced them 130 years ago. These true miracles are part of a collection worth an estimated $5 million, comprising at least 130 bottles of wine and cognac, including rare vintages such as "Pedro Ximenes 1899" and "Porto 1892".

The collection was discovered on the site of the medieval hilltop complex of Becov nad Teplou, in the west of what is now the Czech Republic. The site once belonged, within the Austrian Empire, to the transnational, German-speaking Beaufort-Spontin aristocratic family.

The estate was confiscated by Czechoslovakia in 1945. After the forced departure of its owners, the wine remained hidden beneath the floor of the château chapel for decades, alongside a precious reliquary. It wasn't until 1985 that the Communist secret police discovered the whole thing.

While the priceless liturgical object was immediately transferred to Prague for extensive restoration, before returning to Becov to be exhibited in 2002, the flasks remained in situ, more or less forgotten. It was only ten years ago, during an inventory, that they were rediscovered. A delicate rescue operation then began.

The prestigious Château d'Yquem led the way, and replaced the corks and fitting protective capsules to bottles produced in 1892 and 1896. "We tasted a sample to make sure that in terms of balance on the palate and overall perception, the wine corresponded to a Château d'Yquem of this age," said cellar master Toni El Khawand.

Laboratory analysis confirmed the provenance. As the wine gradually gave way to oxygen, the estate had to decant it, so that only five original bottles could be sent back to Becov full. Speaking at a presentation of these survivors with an exceptional history, Toni El Khawand compared tasting this wine with its "great complexity" to a "magical moment". The wine has survived thanks to its high sugar content and "impresses with its almost acidic freshness on the palate".

"In fact, when you uncork it, it's as if you're uncorking time", confided the cellar master, detecting cinnamon and nutmeg, and notes "more typical of a Château d'Yquem of this age, such as chocolate or coffee".

While the Czech National Heritage Institute has estimated the ensemble's value in millions of dollars should it be sold at auction, Toni El Khawand refused to give a financial estimate. "Above all, it has a moral and historical value," he insisted. "It's a memory, ultimately - a liquid memory, certainly - but it's the memory of all those who have gone before us, of the work that has been done."

No auction is planned for the time being. Instead, the Central European château plans to display all its bottles to the public. To this end, it has launched a fund-raising campaign, and would also like to "carry out a more in-depth analysis of the wines if possible", says collections manager Katerina Nyvltova.