Shein and BHV Marais: It’s already over—The reasons behind hasty departure from Paris

After just seven months, the Parisian department store BHV is ending its controversial partnership with Shein, a collaboration which the new management has called a “mistake."

The experiment lasted only seven months. The famous Parisian department store BHV (Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville) has decided to end its partnership with Shein, the ultra-fast-fashion giant known for its rock-bottom prices, which has repeatedly been at the center of controversy due to its business model and allegations related to the sale of products that do not comply with European regulations.

The partnership was launched in November 2025 with the opening of a permanent Shein section within this historic department store, right in the heart of Paris. From the outset, this initiative had sparked protests, criticism, and strong reservations from associations, consumers, and brands operating within the shopping center.

The turning point comes with the change in ownership of the BHV. The Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), which had managed the department store since 2023, has announced the sale of the property to the current management team, led by Karl-Stéphane Cottendin. And it is precisely Mr. Cottendin who has distanced himself from the deal, bluntly calling it a “mistake,” according to a spokesperson.

Criticism of Shein

This partnership had sparked a heated debate, particularly due to Shein’s business model, which is based on extremely low prices and ultra-fast production of new items. In recent years, the Singapore-based company has been repeatedly criticized for the environmental impact of its operations, for working conditions within its production chain, and for the presence on its platform of products deemed non-compliant with safety standards.

The store’s opening at the BHV was met with protests. On the very day of the grand opening, the French government had even attempted to block the platform in the country, a decision that was later overturned by a Paris court.

Paradoxically, many regular Shein customers also expressed disappointment with the in-store experience. Despite the long queues on the opening day, many visitors complained that prices were significantly higher than those charged online. Accustomed to finding clothing on the platform for just a few euros and jeans at ridiculously low prices, in the store, many did not find the price that has made the brand famous worldwide.

Needless to say, the whole affair comes amid an already complicated economic situation for the Parisian department store. Even before the agreement with Shein, BHV was going through a period of financial difficulties, marked by late payments to suppliers. Ultimately, the arrival of the ultra-fast-fashion giant, far from restoring the shopping center’s image, has helped fuel new tensions—to such an extent that several brands operating within the department store have decided to leave the premises in protest against the partnership.

For its part, Shein stated that it respects BHV’s decision, while emphasizing that the collaboration had been intended to be temporary from the outset. The company also expressed regret that customers had to visit the store while the department store’s renovation work was still underway.

The end of the agreement marks a new chapter in the complex relationship between France and the ultra-fast-fashion phenomenon. This sector, increasingly criticized for its environmental and social impact despite its commercial success, continues to divide public opinion, institutions, and consumers.