Sunscreens and cosmetics: controversial UV filter now banned in EU

As from May 1, 2026, sunscreens containing 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, a filter accused of acting as an endocrine disruptor, should no longer be found on the shelves. However, some stocks may still be in circulation: here's how to spot it on the label.

This year, a major innovation was introduced: as of May 1, 2026, the sale of all cosmetics containing the UV filter 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor (also known as 4-MBC or Enzacamene) is now definitively banned throughout the European Union. The ban applies not only to sun creams, but to all products incorporating this protection: body lotions and creams, face creams, foundations and lip balms.

The reference regulatory framework is Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, which sets out the substances authorized in formulations sold in Europe. It was then Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996, adopted on April 3, 2024, which formally withdrew 4-MBC from the list of authorized substances, amending the annexes to the regulation.of the framework regulation due to the ingredient's potential endocrine-interfering properties.

However, the ban did not come about overnight: Since May 1, 2025, it has been forbidden to market new products containing this filter, and since May 1, 2026, an absolute ban on making it available has come into force, definitively sealing the end of the period for disposing of stocks already on the market. In theory, therefore, there should be no trace left on the shelves. In practice, a few residual products may still be in circulation, and caution is still called for.

Why has 4-MBC UV filter been banned?

4-MBC is a chemical filter used to protect the skin from UV rays and as a stabilizer in cosmetic formulations. The problem became clear in 2022, when the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS ) concluded that there was sufficient evidence to classify it as an endocrine disruptor, i.e. a substance capable of altering the normal functioning of the hormonal system.

Particularly worrying signals were found concerning the thyroid and estrogen systems. To make matters worse, the substance does not remain on the surface: it's absorbed through the skin and reaches the general circulation, exceeding the safety margins deemed acceptable, even at the maximum concentration of 4% stipulated by the old regulations.

In environmental terms, 4-MBC tends to accumulate in aquatic ecosystems, with documented effects on marine organisms similar to those observed in humans.

Not the only filter under scrutiny

It would be a mistake to think that the problem only concerns this substance. Many other UV filters in sunscreens are currently being monitored for similar reasons. Benzophenone is still authorized, but at a maximum concentration of 5%. Homosalate and octocrylene are also restricted due to suspected endocrine effects. In the case of octocrylene, the French agency ANSES has argued for restrictions so strict as to render it de facto unusable in cosmetic formulations. However, the debate remains open at European level.

The fact that these substances are still "legal" does not necessarily mean that they are safe: it simply means that the evaluation process is ongoing, or that the available data do not yet justify a formal ban. A good reason to stay informed.

How to check your sunscreen

May 1st has already passed, but that doesn't mean there's no longer any risk of coming across a product containing 4-MBC, whether in a store, online, or at the back of the bathroom cupboard. Caution is always called for, and it's always useful to know how to decipher a cosmetics label.

All cosmetics sold in Europe must include the INCI list ("International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients"), where ingredients are listed in descending order of quantity. Names to look for, and avoid, are 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor or Enzacamene: both refer to the same filter. If it appears at the beginning of the list, the concentration is probably significant; if it appears at the end, it is only present in trace amounts, but in any case, it should no longer be there.

And if you want to take a step further, it may be useful to keep an eye on Benzophenone-3, Homosalate and Octocrylene, ingredients that are still authorized, but for which, as we have already indicated, doubts remain as to their safety.

For children, the issue calls for even greater vigilance: the restrictions applicable to paediatric suncare products are stricter, and certain substances tolerated by adults are not allowed in formulations intended for the very young. When choosing sun protection for children, it's best to check that the product is specifically indicated for their age group, and to read the list of ingredients with the same care as for food.

Source : REGULATION (EU) 2024/996